巴黎时间9月30日18:30，亚历山大麦昆2024春夏系列大秀开启，一众超模鱼贯而出，阵容堪称豪华。只是，群模表情中总有丝丝伤感，国模刘雯含泪走秀，闭秀超模Naomi更是抬手拭泪。
令冷面超模们变得如此感性的，正是创意总监Sarah Burton的谢幕，服务品牌26年之久的她，在今夜献上自己的告别之作。
45个look之后，David Bowie的《Heroes》适时地响起，全体秀场嘉宾起立，掌声雷动。
我们又看到了Sarah Burton身穿她标志性的谢幕行头——衬衫，牛仔裤+小白鞋。
不同的是，她不再像以往那样轻轻挥手微笑便隐身于后台，而是此生第一次也是最后一次，走上了Alexander McQueen的秀场通道，在欢呼声中和老友一一拥抱告别，非常克制内敛，非常英国，一如她的作品。
而这距离Sarah Burton第一次作为Alexander McQueen创意总监走到台前，已经过了13年。
上：2024 SS 秀后谢幕
下：2011 SS 秀后谢幕
Sarah Burton将Alexander McQueen 2024春夏系列命名为“ANATOMY II”（解剖学 第二章），与2023年秋冬的第一章流畅衔接。
虽然今年9月开云集团才释出Alexander McQueen即将换帅的新闻，但或许Burton早已萌生退意？因为始于上一季的ANATOMY系列本就是一次完美的回顾，是一次对创始人Lee Alexander McQueen的致敬，也是对Burton职业生涯的浓缩。
暴力感的切口，超低腰的"Bumster "裤，外露的“脊椎骨”，破碎的流苏裙，触目的血红色……那些大多出现在上世纪Alexander McQueen秀场，前卫到令人不安的设计，被Sarah Burton用日臻完美的技艺以更加优雅隐晦的方式悉数呈现。
McQueen钟爱的玫瑰和女性主题也在此完美结合。
花瓣裙如玫瑰盛放，又如女性身体的隐秘花园，浪漫中不乏强势，唯美而不失热烈。
金属线及由多面珠制成的刺绣，讲述的是女性身体构造，细节创作基于Ame Bourdon收藏于国家医学图书馆的绘画作品。
“ANATOMY”（解剖学）不仅意味着Sarah Burton的设计灵感来自女性身体构造，或许也意味着她重构了Alexander McQueen标志性的黑色西装三件套，赋予了它们不同以往的轮廓。
从左至右，1-2: 2024 春夏系列
3-6: 2023 秋冬系列
而在更深层的意义上，她这些年所做的，正是将Lee的设计理念与遗产层层剖析，再次吸收，然后让这个品牌萌发出新的血肉。
“这一系列灵感来自女性身体构造、伊丽莎白一世、血红色玫瑰以及Magdalena Abakanowicz，一位敢于挑战规则、极富创造力、拒绝妥协的艺术家。
这场秀献给Lee Alexander McQueen，长久以来他一直希望能够赋能女性，献给我的团队，感谢他们的热情、才华以及忠诚。”
——Sarah Burton
Sarah Burton是当今大牌创意总监中的稀有物种。
她没有令人眼花缭乱的履历，职业生涯的全部时间，仅仅服务于一个品牌；
她没有令人生畏的强大气场，不潮也不酷。在Met Gala红毯上被名流大咖拍肩膀，她的第一反应是“自己需要让开位置”；
她是标准的社恐星人，在社交狂魔们争相营销，轮番攻占版面的时尚圈，她极少露面，始终低调，就连每季谢幕时也只是轻轻挥手就秒回幕后，短暂亮相时手臂上往往还套着针插。
但对于Lee Alexander McQueen而言，Sarah Burton却是天选助手。
1996年，还在圣马丁读书的Sarah Burton前来应聘Alexander McQueen的实习生职位，当她与Lee见面时，他并未纠结太多专业问题，而是问：“你相信UFO的存在吗？” Burton给出了肯定的回答，也获得了这个实习机会。
这个看起来十分普通的柴郡女孩，成为了Lee Alexander McQueen第一个也是唯一的助手。1997年，刚刚毕业的Sarah Burton顺利“转正”，并在三年之后的2000年升任女装设计主管，开始独当一面。
凭借扎实的裁剪功底，Sarah Burton得以将Lee Alexander McQueen天马行空的设计狂想变为现实，务实勤勉的她就像一个管家，还负责将大秀上狂野大胆的秀款转化为更为实穿的商业款。对于Burton而言，Lee不仅是上司，还是密友，更是导师。
我所知道的一切都是在这里学到的。
如果你不知道如何做某件事，
Lee会让你接受挑战，
并教你如何做，
或者让你自己弄清楚如何做。
如果没有2010年2月Lee的自缢身亡，这对最佳拍档也许会一直持续下去，但创始人的猝然离世中断了这样的可能，也将Sarah Burton和Alexander McQueen这个品牌推到了十字路口。
Lee Alexander McQueen是这个时代最惊才绝艳的设计奇才+作秀大师，而彼时的Sarah Burton只是他背后默默无闻的助手。请她接手Lee的位置，对于品牌来说或许是不得已而为之，但对于Burton而言却很有可能是“费力不讨好”的苦差，她本人也曾十分犹豫。
Lee的想法和其他人很不一样。
我知道我不可能假装成他。
但Sarah Burton权衡之后最终接受了这次任命，因为她不愿看到Lee的品牌就此倒闭，团队原地解散，虽然时年34的她正有做母亲的打算，不过她并不认为这是拒绝挑战的理由。
2010年5月，Sarah Burton成为Alexander McQueen的新任创意总监。
当Sarah Burton 的首秀——Alexander McQueen 2011春夏系列发布时，大家都松了一口气：这个品牌并未完结。
前6季作品在Lee遗留的部分手稿基础上完成。虽然有创始人的意志，但加入了Burton更为女性化的细腻表达，柔软包容，唯美惊艳。
Sarah Burton 的首秀 2011 春夏系列
在创始人的“遗产”上创作，Burton是自洽的，她说：
我不会抹去过去的一切，
那会把我抹去。
McQueen的元素永远存在，
但与此同时，你永远不能止步不前，
你必须忠于自己。
这就是Lee一直向我灌输的想法——
你必须能够支持自己的工作。
也是因为这种自洽，那个痛苦、愤怒、自我缠斗的Alexander McQueen在Burton手中变得柔和，就像一只应激状态的动物在温柔的抚触中渐渐收起獠牙。
Lee时代的Alexander McQueen秀场
戏剧程度拉满，不断挑战禁忌
他宁愿嘉宾呕吐着走出去
也不想举办一场鸡尾酒会式的秀
随着时间日久，Burton的设计也日渐展现出自身的复杂性，证明她绝非Lee的空洞回声。
Burton不再将鲜血、内脏、性与死亡赤裸地表现，她淬炼出更加浓缩的设计语言去呈现品牌DNA；她以几近高定的工艺去制作成衣系列，修炼出无可挑剔的裁剪工艺，以老辣、锋利的线条彰显女性力量。
2013 秋冬系列，灵感源于伊丽莎白一世时代的天主教会
全系列仅10个look，不是高定胜似高定
2013 春夏系列，“现代采蜂人”令人惊艳
Lee钟爱蝴蝶元素，而Burton则更像默默耕耘的蜜蜂
2016 春夏系列，注入了更多个人风格
英国乡村与少女浪漫
让这一季的Alexander McQueen焕然一新
2016 秋冬系列，制作过程正值她的第三个女儿出生
梦幻、童趣、如星河般闪耀的设计
反映出女性设计师的人生经历
在执掌品牌之前，Burton希望成为母亲，这一人生计划并未因为事业上升而搁浅——她是3个女儿的妈妈。
孕育生命也为她提供了新的灵感，她将女性这一特殊生命历程所带来的感触注入到设计中——2013-2016年的几季，是她最具童趣、梦幻、最轻柔而唯美的设计。而在此之后，Burton的作品格更富力度，风格日渐成熟，同时也更加关注公共议题。
众所周知的是，Sarah Burton在2011年为凯特王妃制作了婚纱，Alexander McQueen也是王妃最为钟爱的品牌，从公务出访、皇室婚礼、女王葬礼到新皇登基，王妃都身着Alexander McQueen的服装。
Alexander McQueen 见证了凯特王妃的所有重要时刻
Sarah Burton时代的Alexander McQueen也成为最受女星青睐的红毯战袍，它不再只属于Lady Gaga这种diva，不同特质的女性都能在它的加持下展现出自己最美的一面。
Lady Gaga 身着Sarah Burton作品
Cate Blanchett 一直是Alexander McQueen的忠实粉丝
Alexander McQueen几乎是女魔头女儿Bee Shaffer
每年Met Gala的红毯御用礼服
从出尘仙子到暗黑哥特，Elle Fanning皆可驾驭
奥斯卡影后、第一夫人，当红小花，新晋超模……
Burton的Alexander McQueen被演绎出多重风格
一如创始人Lee所期望的那样：我想做的，就是让女人看起来更强大。
如果说Lee所推崇的女性主义因为愤怒的宣泄而充满了误读与争议，那么Sarah Burton的女性主义可以说是润物无声。
Sarah Burton和Lee有着相似之处，他们都内向害羞，出身普通。
不同的是，Lee充满暴力、性侵的贫瘠童年，塑造了他天才的敏锐，也让他背负天才的易碎和难以捉摸。
而Burton虽然家境普通，却拥有温暖而稳定的童年生活，她没有McQueen暗黑的创伤隐痛，没有他开创性的奇才大略，但也拥有细腻独到的美学理念，最关键的是，她有一个稳定强大的内核，支撑自己步步为营地实现目标。
在这个竞争永无休止的世界上，
也许我的确没有坚硬的盔甲，
但这并不代表我缺少坚强。
时尚圈最不像圈内人的创意总监离职了，品牌已经官宣爱尔兰设计师Sean McGirr即将接手Sarah Burton的位置。
在大牌亟需年轻化，纷纷着力话题营销，意图制造爆款的当下，大刀阔斧的革新势在必行。但一如在大秀上流泪的超模Naomi Campbell所言：
这不是再见，
这是Sarah Burton时代的开始，
我知道Lee自豪地照耀着你。
你坚持了26年，
我向你和全体
Alexander McQueen的团队致敬。
期待Alexander McQueen与Sarah Burton都有美好的未来。
编辑 /Andrea 设计 / Shanta
※图片来自Alexander McQueen，网络
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Burton，一个女设计师和她的英雄主义
依恋(ELAND)服装怎么区分它的系列?
ys 是衬衫 可能是条纹 mt是卫衣 kw是针织衫 jk是风衣 wj是裙子 yc可能是格子衬衫
请问网上哪里可以买到这件衣服啊?
看不到图片
可以推荐淘宝几个质量好的服装店吗?
这是大家都比较熟悉的网红店铺了,衣服款式看起来很一般,但是仔细观察会发现有很多细节小设计在里面,作为日常穿搭都非常合适,而且他们家可以百搭的款式很多,适合二十多到三十多的干练女生,衣服质量非常好,在价格上就稍微贵一点。 安妮森林一家偏森女风格的店铺,店铺里的服饰风格更偏向森女风,价格可能稍微贵一些,胜在...
想购买通勤又百搭的衣服该选择哪些淘宝店铺?
想购买类似的衣服我们可以选择MAGIC潮货店、L ee店、李宁店、it店等这店都是有好的通勤百搭的衣服。
adidas高手来拉.帮我看看adidas衣服标是正品衣服的。
最后一个是正品...其他看不到。
我想问下eland 依恋有款货号是 EEJP14902C和EEJP14902C-1有什么区 ...
但是就是不知道他的厂家是不是一样的，我这个从店里买的制造商是南京金岛，地址是南京市溧水县的。不知道-1的哪的。我知道鞋子产地不一样的出来的东西等级是不一样的，价格也不一样，而且鞋子会有是真货但是是此等品这么一说，质量等级不一样，不知道衣服是不是这样的。但是网上吧毕竟是省了店面...
在衣服上印有LAM和EEU是什么意思?
又让这个标志是他们的图案和他们的花案的类型是不一样的，所以才会有这个标志。
关于选择衣服!!! 大家进来哦
个人比较喜欢nike那件哦:)楼主要在淘宝买么?..那你跟店长联系的时候把你的身高和体重发给店长他会帮你选择的,因为说真的..淘宝上的衣服并不见得号码跟正品完全一样.如果想在淘宝买正品,一定选择信誉高的店.钻或者冠越多越好= =+
你觉得爱登堡的衣服怎么样?
爱登堡的衣服质量不错，和与狼共舞差不多，都是商务休闲。香港爱登堡国际投资集团1991年进军中国大陆市场，并先后在大陆成立爱登堡制衣发展有限公司、爱登堡（中国）有限公司。爱登堡（中国）有限公司主要负责著名休闲服饰品牌Edenbo在中国市场的推广。简介 Edenbo服饰自进入中国市场以来，以其英伦新经典的产品风格...
...我在淘宝上代购件衣服,卖家发来购买的截图,可是我看不懂
总金额： 310,000元 付款：310,000元 取消\/退货金额: 0元 付运费商品：0个 确认日期 2012-2-10 付款金额： 310,000元
艾德15630851721问：
lee的牛仔衣服一般多少钱?？
天长市息斯回答： 专柜卖牛仔服不多的,冬天那种棉衣型牛仔服就更少了,不过你们那边不是很冷,只要里面多穿点就不冷了(我买过Lee春秋的牛仔服,没看到过冬天的,我买掉790,一般Lee家外套就是690;790;890;1090;这样.冬天棉衣1400也有.
艾德15630851721问：
lee牌牛仔裤零售价一般多少 - ？
天长市息斯回答： lee牌牛仔裤零售价一般590、690的比较常见.比如男款720、733、735这些系列的定价都是590元,女款的408系列的定价多数是690. 节假日期间会有打折的促销活动,,最便宜的时候199一条!不过都是断码的!个人建议还是等搞活动的时候入手.
艾德15630851721问：
lee的T恤大概在多少价位?？
天长市息斯回答： LEE衣服我很多,长袖T恤320,360,460,490,520,660等等..短袖220,290,320,360,等等
艾德15630851721问：
LEE的牛裤要多少钱?？
天长市息斯回答： LEE专卖店一般价格在500-1000之间,如果布料设计一般就在500多,如果有些磨旧工艺或是新的系列,那么一般就会在600多到700多了,但是800多的价格很少出现,(以前的价格以600多居多,但是现在现在越来越多的700多块的系列了)如果是经典系列(如101),一般就在1000块左右了,不打折
艾德15630851721问：
LEE的T恤大概多少钱 - ？
天长市息斯回答： 普通裤子价格在400￥到600￥多,比李维斯.(Levi's)便宜.
艾德15630851721问：
lee的一件衣服大约要多少钱? - ？
天长市息斯回答： 你问什么衣服?T-恤大概200~300多之间.外套大概400~1000不等.
艾德15630851721问：
LEE的T恤大概多少钱？
天长市息斯回答： 小穴啊 LEE的T恤一般400到500左右啊 短袖稍微便宜点
艾德15630851721问：
lee和LEVIS上衣价格,主要是T恤、衬衫 - ？
天长市息斯回答： Lee短袖260,320,390一般都是这个价,Levis一般比Lee便宜50裤子不算,这是专柜价,网上Lee少有真货,同志你买时要慎重啊!
艾德15630851721问：
lee里的服饰一般都是什么价位的? - ？
天长市息斯回答： 恩``有时上千的也会有 但是象LEE,Levis这些店打折的时候很少 楼主要是喜欢的话,可以去买件先试试 觉得舒服`而且手头资金充足的话``可以继续消费!
艾德15630851721问：
Lee和Subcrew短袖的价位是多少?？
天长市息斯回答： Lee 短袖比较便宜 200-300左右 subcrew没买过Tee 只买过帽子,帽子的话大概440左右 不过今年有好几个很好看的款只要320港币 但是一般subcrew普通Tee 的价格也是在300左右吧 裤子880左右
