巴黎时间9月30日18:30,亚历山大麦昆2024春夏系列大秀开启,一众超模鱼贯而出,阵容堪称豪华。只是,群模表情中总有丝丝伤感,国模刘雯含泪走秀,闭秀超模Naomi更是抬手拭泪。
令冷面超模们变得如此感性的,正是创意总监Sarah Burton的谢幕,服务品牌26年之久的她,在今夜献上自己的告别之作。
45个look之后,David Bowie的《Heroes》适时地响起,全体秀场嘉宾起立,掌声雷动。
我们又看到了Sarah Burton身穿她标志性的谢幕行头——衬衫,牛仔裤+小白鞋。
不同的是,她不再像以往那样轻轻挥手微笑便隐身于后台,而是此生第一次也是最后一次,走上了Alexander McQueen的秀场通道,在欢呼声中和老友一一拥抱告别,非常克制内敛,非常英国,一如她的作品。
而这距离Sarah Burton第一次作为Alexander McQueen创意总监走到台前,已经过了13年。
上:2024 SS 秀后谢幕
下:2011 SS 秀后谢幕
Sarah Burton将Alexander McQueen 2024春夏系列命名为“ANATOMY II”(解剖学 第二章),与2023年秋冬的第一章流畅衔接。
虽然今年9月开云集团才释出Alexander McQueen即将换帅的新闻,但或许Burton早已萌生退意?因为始于上一季的ANATOMY系列本就是一次完美的回顾,是一次对创始人Lee Alexander McQueen的致敬,也是对Burton职业生涯的浓缩。
暴力感的切口,超低腰的"Bumster "裤,外露的“脊椎骨”,破碎的流苏裙,触目的血红色……那些大多出现在上世纪Alexander McQueen秀场,前卫到令人不安的设计,被Sarah Burton用日臻完美的技艺以更加优雅隐晦的方式悉数呈现。
McQueen钟爱的玫瑰和女性主题也在此完美结合。
花瓣裙如玫瑰盛放,又如女性身体的隐秘花园,浪漫中不乏强势,唯美而不失热烈。
金属线及由多面珠制成的刺绣,讲述的是女性身体构造,细节创作基于Ame Bourdon收藏于国家医学图书馆的绘画作品。
“ANATOMY”(解剖学)不仅意味着Sarah Burton的设计灵感来自女性身体构造,或许也意味着她重构了Alexander McQueen标志性的黑色西装三件套,赋予了它们不同以往的轮廓。
从左至右,1-2: 2024 春夏系列
3-6: 2023 秋冬系列
而在更深层的意义上,她这些年所做的,正是将Lee的设计理念与遗产层层剖析,再次吸收,然后让这个品牌萌发出新的血肉。
“这一系列灵感来自女性身体构造、伊丽莎白一世、血红色玫瑰以及Magdalena Abakanowicz,一位敢于挑战规则、极富创造力、拒绝妥协的艺术家。
这场秀献给Lee Alexander McQueen,长久以来他一直希望能够赋能女性,献给我的团队,感谢他们的热情、才华以及忠诚。”
——Sarah Burton
Sarah Burton是当今大牌创意总监中的稀有物种。
她没有令人眼花缭乱的履历,职业生涯的全部时间,仅仅服务于一个品牌;
她没有令人生畏的强大气场,不潮也不酷。在Met Gala红毯上被名流大咖拍肩膀,她的第一反应是“自己需要让开位置”;
她是标准的社恐星人,在社交狂魔们争相营销,轮番攻占版面的时尚圈,她极少露面,始终低调,就连每季谢幕时也只是轻轻挥手就秒回幕后,短暂亮相时手臂上往往还套着针插。
但对于Lee Alexander McQueen而言,Sarah Burton却是天选助手。
1996年,还在圣马丁读书的Sarah Burton前来应聘Alexander McQueen的实习生职位,当她与Lee见面时,他并未纠结太多专业问题,而是问:“你相信UFO的存在吗?” Burton给出了肯定的回答,也获得了这个实习机会。
这个看起来十分普通的柴郡女孩,成为了Lee Alexander McQueen第一个也是唯一的助手。1997年,刚刚毕业的Sarah Burton顺利“转正”,并在三年之后的2000年升任女装设计主管,开始独当一面。
凭借扎实的裁剪功底,Sarah Burton得以将Lee Alexander McQueen天马行空的设计狂想变为现实,务实勤勉的她就像一个管家,还负责将大秀上狂野大胆的秀款转化为更为实穿的商业款。对于Burton而言,Lee不仅是上司,还是密友,更是导师。
我所知道的一切都是在这里学到的。
如果你不知道如何做某件事,
Lee会让你接受挑战,
并教你如何做,
或者让你自己弄清楚如何做。
如果没有2010年2月Lee的自缢身亡,这对最佳拍档也许会一直持续下去,但创始人的猝然离世中断了这样的可能,也将Sarah Burton和Alexander McQueen这个品牌推到了十字路口。
Lee Alexander McQueen是这个时代最惊才绝艳的设计奇才+作秀大师,而彼时的Sarah Burton只是他背后默默无闻的助手。请她接手Lee的位置,对于品牌来说或许是不得已而为之,但对于Burton而言却很有可能是“费力不讨好”的苦差,她本人也曾十分犹豫。
Lee的想法和其他人很不一样。
我知道我不可能假装成他。
但Sarah Burton权衡之后最终接受了这次任命,因为她不愿看到Lee的品牌就此倒闭,团队原地解散,虽然时年34的她正有做母亲的打算,不过她并不认为这是拒绝挑战的理由。
2010年5月,Sarah Burton成为Alexander McQueen的新任创意总监。
当Sarah Burton 的首秀——Alexander McQueen 2011春夏系列发布时,大家都松了一口气:这个品牌并未完结。
前6季作品在Lee遗留的部分手稿基础上完成。虽然有创始人的意志,但加入了Burton更为女性化的细腻表达,柔软包容,唯美惊艳。
Sarah Burton 的首秀 2011 春夏系列
在创始人的“遗产”上创作,Burton是自洽的,她说:
我不会抹去过去的一切,
那会把我抹去。
McQueen的元素永远存在,
但与此同时,你永远不能止步不前,
你必须忠于自己。
这就是Lee一直向我灌输的想法——
你必须能够支持自己的工作。
也是因为这种自洽,那个痛苦、愤怒、自我缠斗的Alexander McQueen在Burton手中变得柔和,就像一只应激状态的动物在温柔的抚触中渐渐收起獠牙。
Lee时代的Alexander McQueen秀场
戏剧程度拉满,不断挑战禁忌
他宁愿嘉宾呕吐着走出去
也不想举办一场鸡尾酒会式的秀
随着时间日久,Burton的设计也日渐展现出自身的复杂性,证明她绝非Lee的空洞回声。
Burton不再将鲜血、内脏、性与死亡赤裸地表现,她淬炼出更加浓缩的设计语言去呈现品牌DNA;她以几近高定的工艺去制作成衣系列,修炼出无可挑剔的裁剪工艺,以老辣、锋利的线条彰显女性力量。
2013 秋冬系列,灵感源于伊丽莎白一世时代的天主教会
全系列仅10个look,不是高定胜似高定
2013 春夏系列,“现代采蜂人”令人惊艳
Lee钟爱蝴蝶元素,而Burton则更像默默耕耘的蜜蜂
2016 春夏系列,注入了更多个人风格
英国乡村与少女浪漫
让这一季的Alexander McQueen焕然一新
2016 秋冬系列,制作过程正值她的第三个女儿出生
梦幻、童趣、如星河般闪耀的设计
反映出女性设计师的人生经历
在执掌品牌之前,Burton希望成为母亲,这一人生计划并未因为事业上升而搁浅——她是3个女儿的妈妈。
孕育生命也为她提供了新的灵感,她将女性这一特殊生命历程所带来的感触注入到设计中——2013-2016年的几季,是她最具童趣、梦幻、最轻柔而唯美的设计。而在此之后,Burton的作品格更富力度,风格日渐成熟,同时也更加关注公共议题。
众所周知的是,Sarah Burton在2011年为凯特王妃制作了婚纱,Alexander McQueen也是王妃最为钟爱的品牌,从公务出访、皇室婚礼、女王葬礼到新皇登基,王妃都身着Alexander McQueen的服装。
Alexander McQueen 见证了凯特王妃的所有重要时刻
Sarah Burton时代的Alexander McQueen也成为最受女星青睐的红毯战袍,它不再只属于Lady Gaga这种diva,不同特质的女性都能在它的加持下展现出自己最美的一面。
Lady Gaga 身着Sarah Burton作品
Cate Blanchett 一直是Alexander McQueen的忠实粉丝
Alexander McQueen几乎是女魔头女儿Bee Shaffer
每年Met Gala的红毯御用礼服
从出尘仙子到暗黑哥特,Elle Fanning皆可驾驭
奥斯卡影后、第一夫人,当红小花,新晋超模……
Burton的Alexander McQueen被演绎出多重风格
一如创始人Lee所期望的那样:我想做的,就是让女人看起来更强大。
如果说Lee所推崇的女性主义因为愤怒的宣泄而充满了误读与争议,那么Sarah Burton的女性主义可以说是润物无声。
Sarah Burton和Lee有着相似之处,他们都内向害羞,出身普通。
不同的是,Lee充满暴力、性侵的贫瘠童年,塑造了他天才的敏锐,也让他背负天才的易碎和难以捉摸。
而Burton虽然家境普通,却拥有温暖而稳定的童年生活,她没有McQueen暗黑的创伤隐痛,没有他开创性的奇才大略,但也拥有细腻独到的美学理念,最关键的是,她有一个稳定强大的内核,支撑自己步步为营地实现目标。
在这个竞争永无休止的世界上,
也许我的确没有坚硬的盔甲,
但这并不代表我缺少坚强。
时尚圈最不像圈内人的创意总监离职了,品牌已经官宣爱尔兰设计师Sean McGirr即将接手Sarah Burton的位置。
在大牌亟需年轻化,纷纷着力话题营销,意图制造爆款的当下,大刀阔斧的革新势在必行。但一如在大秀上流泪的超模Naomi Campbell所言:
这不是再见,
这是Sarah Burton时代的开始,
我知道Lee自豪地照耀着你。
你坚持了26年,
我向你和全体
Alexander McQueen的团队致敬。
期待Alexander McQueen与Sarah Burton都有美好的未来。
编辑 /Andrea 设计 / Shanta
※图片来自Alexander McQueen,网络
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Burton,一个女设计师和她的英雄主义
阿迪达斯ee5230男生可以穿吗?
如果衣服粘上酱油,可以使用苏打粉在粘有酱油的区域涂上,等待十几分钟后,用清水清洗就可以。7、衣服上的油渍怎么洗:洗衣液去油渍 现在市场上很多都有卖去除油脂的洗衣液或者洗衣粉,使用温水配合洗衣液使用,方便快捷。8、衣服上的油渍怎么洗:火碱去油渍 火碱去油渍。火碱是一种工业原料,去污能力第一。常...
大家来帮忙认一下这些衣服是什么牌子的?男生的牌子..
第一 是KARL KANI 价位T恤30-780不等 第二 还是 KARL KANI 价位同上 第三 左边好象NIKE 右边BAPE或STUSSY 价位从假的10到真的几万不等 第四是 O'NEIL 澳大利亚的冲浪品牌 价位50-400 第五是 AKADEMIKS HIP-HOP品牌 烂大街了 价位50-500 第六 应该是DSQUARED2 价位500 第七"N" ...
EEAKMCLUB是个什么牌子的衣服?
EEAKMCLUB中文意思是EEAKMCLUB俱乐部
乚ee是什么牌衣服专卖店
LEE是一个成立于1889年的美国著名牛仔裤品牌。它以经典和权威的形象在牛仔裤界占有一席之地,并被誉为世界三大牛仔裤品牌之一。品牌的创始人H D Li最初开设了一家工作服制造厂,主要向美国中、西部的农夫和工人提供工作服。一些当时的经典款式至今仍然流行,比如吊带工人裤"BIB’N’BRACE"和在一战期间...
乚ee是什么牌衣服专卖店
LEE,是一个创建于1889年的美国著名牛仔裤品牌。LEE牛仔裤成为牛仔裤坛的经典与权威,被誉为世界三大牛仔裤品牌之一。创办人H D Li最初开设一家工作服制造厂,主要供应日常工作服给予美国中、西部的农夫和工人。当时的经典有些至今仍流行着,如吊带工人裤"BIB’N’BRACE”,以及在一次世界大战成为美军...
乚ee是什么牌子衣服
您问的是ELLE是什么牌子衣服吗?法国服饰品牌。著名法国时装品牌ELLE,20世纪80年代初,也就是法国著名ELLE时尚杂志诞生40多年后,以ELLE命名的服饰品牌随即诞生了,以红、白、蓝为主色调,面料多以棉为主。
依恋(ELAND)服装怎么区分它的系列?
ys 是衬衫 可能是条纹 mt是卫衣 kw是针织衫 jk是风衣 wj是裙子 yc可能是格子衬衫
上海买衣服的地方,类似静安小亭的(最好外贸的衣服多一些)
如果你在1楼刚买了外贸服装,上了2楼看见PRADA、CD、 LV、YSL、DKNY等顶级品牌的衣服、鞋子、包包,又不小心瞥见了近4位数的价格,可别诧异———它们都是旅居加拿大的店主从专卖店里一样样背回来的,有当季新品,有依旧簇新的二手货,售价自然比国内商场便宜不少。除此之外,小店还有些颇具民族韵味的纯手工衣服,绝...
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北京华联.大业路 太平洋全兴店 摩尔百盛 人民商场、新世界、摩尔百盛、春熙伊藤
你觉得爱登堡的衣服怎么样?
Edenbo曾多次荣获中国官方授予的荣誉称号:“中国驰名商标”、“国家免检产品”、“休闲男装色彩研发基地”、“中国最具时尚品牌”、“中国知名品牌”、“中国服装十大影响力品牌”、“中国质量、服务、信誉AAA级名牌企业”等。2007年Edenbo荣登“亚洲品牌500强”排行榜并被评为“亚洲500最具价值品牌”。早...
鄹安14788791157问:
lee的一件衣服大概多少钱 - ?
汶川县贝诺回答: Lee的衣服大概就5、600吧,,,但是也要看您选择哪种... LV不怎么卖衣服,,,所以不怎么了解,,但是包包通常是10000以上·
鄹安14788791157问:
Lee 价格多少 - ?
汶川县贝诺回答: 热裤,皮带如果你说的是lee的牛仔外套,那现在正价的商品很少有500~600的,但可以打折的时候去买. T恤,卫衣,短裤,牛仔长裤,冬装外套
鄹安14788791157问:
LEE的T恤大概多少钱 - ?
汶川县贝诺回答: 普通裤子价格在400¥到600¥多,比李维斯.(Levi's)便宜.
鄹安14788791157问:
lee的一件衣服大约要多少钱? - ?
汶川县贝诺回答: 你问什么衣服?T-恤大概200~300多之间.外套大概400~1000不等.
鄹安14788791157问:
lee牌牛仔裤零售价一般多少 - ?
汶川县贝诺回答: lee牌牛仔裤零售价一般590、690的比较常见.比如男款720、733、735这些系列的定价都是590元,女款的408系列的定价多数是690. 节假日期间会有打折的促销活动,,最便宜的时候199一条!不过都是断码的!个人建议还是等搞活动的时候入手.
鄹安14788791157问:
lee的牛仔衣服一般多少钱? - ?
汶川县贝诺回答: 专柜卖牛仔服不多的,冬天那种棉衣型牛仔服就更少了,不过你们那边不是很冷,只要里面多穿点就不冷了(我买过Lee春秋的牛仔服,没看到过冬天的,我买掉790,一般Lee家外套就是690;790;890;1090;这样.冬天棉衣1400也有.
鄹安14788791157问:
lee的T恤大概在多少价位??
汶川县贝诺回答: LEE衣服我很多,长袖T恤320,360,460,490,520,660等等..短袖220,290,320,360,等等
鄹安14788791157问:
LEE的T恤大概多少钱?
汶川县贝诺回答: 小穴啊 LEE的T恤一般400到500左右啊 短袖稍微便宜点
鄹安14788791157问:
LEE的牛裤要多少钱??
汶川县贝诺回答: LEE专卖店一般价格在500-1000之间,如果布料设计一般就在500多,如果有些磨旧工艺或是新的系列,那么一般就会在600多到700多了,但是800多的价格很少出现,(以前的价格以600多居多,但是现在现在越来越多的700多块的系列了)如果是经典系列(如101),一般就在1000块左右了,不打折
鄹安14788791157问:
Lee牛仔裤的价格怎么样??
汶川县贝诺回答: Lee牌牛仔的价格还是比较高的 属于高档单品 Lee的整体价格体系在498.00----1239.00之间 这是我在国内所见过的最高和最低价格(仿冒产品不算在内) 打折后的不在那个价格范围之内