今年的米兰确实是令人兴奋的一季，从最受关注的Gucci创意总监Sabato De Sarno（详情请戳????他让你重新爱上Gucci了么？）、Bally新任设计总监Simone Bellotti，到刚刚加入Tom Ford的Peter Hawkings，新锐创意总监的首秀，好不“热闹”。而Moschino 40周年纪念秀同样值得关注。
一览米兰时装周，Fendi、Prada、Armani、Versace、Bottega Veneta……你不能错过的重头戏都在这里，设计师们正在争夺本季T台最火热的时刻！
Fendi 24春夏秀场头排集结Kate Moss、Naomi Campbell、Linda Evangelista和女星Demi Moore等巨星，她们在谢幕时比以往更激动地起身欢呼，因为Fendi这一季真的美极了，要说这是Kim Jones最好的一场Fendi系列，似乎不为过。
伴随着Kim耳机最常听的，满满宏伟感的一曲《This Bitter Earth / On the Nature of Daylight》，本季拉开序幕，第一个Look是贴合身体线条的拼色设计抹露肩织连身裙，鲜明的橙色、象牙白、大地色和天蓝色的色彩组合，瞬间点亮了干净的白色秀场空间。
除了简洁的廓形，大量的几何色块绝对是本季重点。还有出现在皮革大衣、紧身洋装上彩色的FF图腾，这汲取自Karl Lagerfeld过去打造的Fendi典藏。部分水洗丝绸的长洋装，流动线条感与清冷色调宛如罗马常见的女神雕塑。
与秀场巨大的包包装置相呼应，大秀模特儿手中的包几乎多以小包为主，是Fendi经典款的缩小版，包括Baguette、Peekaboo、Origami和First都变成更小的尺寸。
在Etro 24春夏的秀场，柱子矗立在城市腹地，宛若神秘文明忽然重现往昔的遗迹。这场秀在某种程度上也是一个时尚的隐喻，在这里充满无限可能，纷繁元素相互交织激发无数想象空间。
这一季你会看到西方风情的锦缎和夹克，领带图案与条纹的运用；牛仔面料和毛圈织物，所有元素融合在一起，呈现出一种兼容并蓄而充满活力的风格。西部牛仔靴混搭织物编辫，赋予神秘国度图案的宽松衬衫，条纹交织汇聚形成流动的漩涡。
一切都充满了轻盈感，在廓形中将图案无序自由叠加交织，又以极精准的剪裁塑造线条笔直强烈的纵向感，在服装底部展开，打造延伸感和贴合感，上身搭配西装或棒球夹克，突出包裹的层次感。为了进一步营造幻境，设计中还融入了章鱼这一古老的迈锡尼图腾，象征着好运。而蒙眼女神形状的耳环，传递着创意总监对日常穿着的理念，凭直觉与想象去自由发挥，不用过度思考。
设计师Glenn Martens延续了Diesel品牌一贯的娱乐性与实验精神，被火烧坏、被严重撕碎的针织物与牛仔布等各种标志性造旧效果图案，成为了本季服饰的设计主轴，打造出一场充满费洛蒙与年轻活力的时尚狂欢派对。
Glenn Martens在空旷的Scalo Farini废弃铁路空地上，邀请了1500位米兰大学生及6000位公众嘉宾一同参与这场8小时的狂欢派对。SS24时装展设于派对开始的4小时后，已经热身完毕的观众在巨型屏幕所散发的红色灯光下，同时注视着在黑暗中异常耀眼的红地毯伸展台。
仿旧是Diesel标志性的设计手法，而本季我们能够看到这种独特的效果的更多面向。设计师在透肤薄纱上缝上充满破洞的布块，让看似即将剥落的破旧布料神奇地依附在模特儿的身上；而拉丝牛仔布实际上是线未被剪断的针织品，多层的毛线犹如蜘蛛网梯一般。另外一位身上被涂满白色油漆的模特格外显眼，他穿上了仿水泥剥落效果的皮革外套，两者几乎融为一体。
Max Mara 2024 春夏系列的秀场被布置成花园，散落着郁郁葱葱的植物花卉。本季取材于花园，但并不娇艳繁杂，挺括的线条、便于活动的剪裁以及品牌一贯的大地色系，让人想起《英国病人》里壮阔辽远的北非。
墨蓝、灰紫、玫粉、军绿、沙色等色泽描绘着花园的花叶与泥土栅栏，间杂克制的花卉印花凝结出昔日花园的繁茂。灵感来自于军装的干练夹克、连体裤和以园丁工作围裙为灵感的背带长裙、口袋装饰则勾勒出利落、洒脱的女性形象。
整个系列带有灰度的倦旧色彩，搭配现代意味十足的经典剪裁，毫无冗余装饰，仅用腰带束出腰线。自然和缓的色彩与精干挺拔的线条融合，硬朗的线条下也有柔软的丝缎、针织包裹，轻柔的印花薄纱更添浪漫，更像是工作之余在花园里休憩片刻的都市女性，松缓却马上能进入工作状态。
Prada全新SS24时装系列再次重新审视女性的日常时装，以不同的角度看待「平凡」，并用各种有趣的元素打破既定的女装框架。
场地设置延续了前不久男装秀上首次亮相、十分博人眼球，不断滴落的黏液。它们形成不规则的薄膜，并在地上形成一滩呈紫色状的残留物。超现实的现代艺术装置，看似与本次系列毫不相关，事实上却恰恰体现了品牌超脱的设计理念。创意总监Miuccia Prada与Raf Simons将流苏、闪石等元素贯穿造型，日间与晚间之间的时尚界线变得模糊。
镶有窝钉且带有磨损的拼贴皮革连身裙、oversized大衣等，这些造型为系列加入了一丝摇滚的叛逆气息，却因其女性化的剪裁而不减优雅风韵，配合着飘逸灵动的薄纱造型，保留了品牌一贯的女性温柔强大魅力。除了设计理念，工艺也是这季设计师引以为傲的一环，绣于透纱上精细的亮片，被组合成玫瑰花瓣、圆圈等图案，散发出优雅的复古氛围，展现了在 Prada 在创意背后精湛手艺。
秀上精彩，前排看秀的嘉宾也是星光熠熠，惠英紅、Emma Watson、Somi、TWICE成员Sana以及泰国演员Win Metawin都来了。
Emporio Armani整场秀洋溢着夏日欢快的氛围，思绪轻盈，旅途中拾取的灵感，化作拂面轻风。流光溢彩，轻盈飘逸，衣着泛着微妙金属与虹彩光泽，或经巧妙编织与精湛刺绣，却如面纱般缥缈。流动感夹克贴合或轻抚上身；短裁上衣和短裤展露肌肤一角，时或被透明图案织物遮掩；裤装迎合身形线条，长身半裙摇曳生姿。
风格明快而犀利，配搭平底鞋、精巧帽饰与丝巾。手袋或空间宽裕，可随心收纳；或简约至极，仅容必需物品。色调由温暖金米色开篇，与深黑色彼此映衬，过渡至冷调银色、白垩色和矿物灰色；深邃青金石色和葡萄紫色俘获视线，辅以点点黄绿色，继而绽放为浓烈玫瑰色。一切盈盈流转，宛如轻风拂面。
为庆祝Moschino成立40周年，四位品牌好友受邀以Franco Moschino 1983年至1993年的标志性设计为灵感共同打造一个系列「40 years of love」，Moschino品牌的设计语言在四部曲中得到了淋漓尽致的风格诠释。
第一幕 回归简洁优雅
法国造型师Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele共带来10套作品，以简洁优雅的设计向Franco Moschino早年的经典作品致敬，并加入Cerf Style元素。系列作品以经典「黑、白、灰」为主色调，兼具实穿性，可以相互混搭出别具一格的视觉效果。
第二幕 颠覆演绎
纽约造型师Gabriella Karefa-Johnson以Beyoncé的歌曲《PURE/HONEY》作为背景音乐，带来一系列使用勾针元素的设计作品，对Franco Moschino的标志性设计进行重构，参考90年代早期时装骚的风格，对服饰轮廓及面料进行全新演绎。
第三幕 满载浪漫氛围
Lucia Liu对Franco Moschino早期作品进行空灵演绎，最终在Moschino的花卉和针织衫中获取灵感，并以概念化的方式打造全新图案，花卉、爱心、珍珠、蝴蝶结等元素别致地点缀在「蓬松」廓形上，以粉红色调为主打，使整个系列浪漫气息溢出。
第四幕 概念性设计
英国造型师、创意总监兼时尚记者Katie Grand邀请顶级舞者担任模特，由Wayne McGregor进行编舞，呈现极具概念性和嘲讽意味的系列。舞者身着加注巨大问号和感叹号的连体衣出场，「Quiet Luxury」已过去，「Loud Luxury」才是大势所趋。
第五幕 I Am What I Am
惊艳的舞蹈后，Laura Marzadori用小提琴演奏《I Am What I Am》一曲，向Moschino 1986 秋冬系列致敬，模特们身着与Elton John AIDS Foundation合作的慈善T恤闭场，极具纪念意义的Moschin 40周年时装骚缓缓落下帷幕。
Tom Ford新任创作总监Peter Hawkings于米兰献出他接任品牌后的首场时装秀。曾与Tom Ford共事25年的他，在重新审视并延续根基的同时，为品牌掀开全新一页。Peter Hawkings将目光投向60年代至70年代出生于美国底特律的黑人超模Donyale Luna，将凭超凡脱俗气质而闻名的她作为本季的缪思女神。
模特穿上全黑的皮制大衣步出，亮面的蛇纹皮革与紧身裤因灯光折射显得格外出众，配上巨大的太阳眼镜更添神秘感，修身利落的剪裁是Tom Ford标志性的设计手法，他将时尚与精致感拿捏得恰到好处，不会过分张扬的造型反而为穿着者带来强大气场。经历了多套全黑造型后，缤纷的色彩逐渐在舞台显露，象牙白色、粉红色、波斯蓝色、红酒色，这些都是Luna喜爱耀眼颜色，时装骚犹如化为一场气氛被逐渐推高的奢华派对；剪裁完美的绒毛西装外套、发出柔软光泽的金色丝线裙，以及带有荷叶的低胸透视上衣，将我们从米兰带到充满自由与激情的六七十年代美国。
Walter Chiapponi的谢幕之作，以TOD’S FABBRICA为灵感，在充满故事性的举办场地一同赞颂 “意大利制造” 的匠心坚守，工匠们以世代传承的匠艺呈现极致之作。即将于12月在斯卡拉歌剧院首映的《Don Carlos》的舞台置景陈设于秀场中央，大秀由此展开。
女士成衣系列注重立体剪裁、风格廓形与上乘质料。从男士衣橱衍生而出的率性灵感，集合90年代极简主义，以柔软与流动之姿，为女性新释经典衣装。色彩主调依旧是舒雅的自然色调：原色、驼色、烟草色及焦黄调，让人回想起TOD’S 引以为傲的皮具产品；最后又以一抹鲜亮的青柠绿，悦动心扉。透亮的麻、棉、羊毛与Nappa皮革的运用，呈现出柔软、轻盈的春夏风貌。
秀场地面平铺的白色地砖，模仿诊室纯净无暇的氛围，与之呼应，整个系列中的白色焕发出别样的魅力。从光学白到香草白，深浅不一的白色调呈现丰富多彩的纹理与光影效果。明快亮色及水系浅色点缀其间，该系列印花设计源自捷克艺术家Krištof Kintera的装置作品图片，为这一纯粹至上的系列注入活力生机。
挺括的夹棉材质、各式亮泽绸缎、PVC以及其他时尚科技材质交错登场，柔韧棉布、清爽涂层亚麻布和细密植物纤维面料呈现哑光纹理，与轻薄透明材质谐美相称。魔术贴作为关键元素贯穿始终。极简主义时装的精致格调与野兽派的实用主义，以魔术贴为载体碰撞出强烈的视觉张力。
以青春、自信、城市生活的奔放活力为此系列的出发点，从衣橱必备单品到性感张扬的晚礼服，以Atelier专业技艺、紧身衣结构与精湛剪裁等精髓，力求展现千面缤纷生活。
配色和廓形再现1960年代的活力与乐观，材质、褶皱和透视设计却又极具现代感。 精裁夹克、真丝衬衫与超短裤的不羁搭配，洋溢着青春活力、自由张扬与俏皮活泼。建筑美学融会贯通，立体挺括的领口、流线型无领夹克和标志性紧身胸衣，线条流畅，干净利落。以Atelier Versace 1995春夏系列为灵感来源的扭结设计，赋予乔其纱、汗布连衣裙和上衣崭新面貌。
不同材质和风格的对比、碰撞与结合随处可见：坚硬的金属邂逅柔软的嵌花蕾丝，整齐的棋盘格纹融合精美的刺绣，都呈现出惊艳的冲突性美感。
秀场被改造为BOSS Techtopia科技乌托邦空间，将机器人技术等日新月异的技术奇迹与郁郁葱葱的绿色空间相结合，营造宁静氛围。
本系列以「CorpCore/通勤风」为主题。打破传统职场服装规范，以现代理念演绎男女着装中的经典主打款式，从夹克外套到西装套装，衬衫及铅笔半裙，无不焕现新意。超弹力西装取材高性能面料，辅以经典图案印花；腰带元素为方正剪裁注入利落之感；深开衩和双向拉链增添百搭风格。结构式清爽面料打造利落廓形，彰显简洁流畅观感。醒目纽扣和拉链设计，将视线焦点引向品牌鲜明正装剪裁工艺。
精致柔和色调汲取惯见于职场的中性色彩：从永恒灰色与白色流转至棕色与绿色。BOSS系列的经典黑色亦大量运用于此系列，晕染于标志性B-monogram图案单品，与品牌形象不谋而合。
本系列依旧秉持了品牌一贯简洁的风格，利用考究的剪裁，打造出摩登的一季。汲取于意大利精髓与加勒比风格的相似之处。每件单品也拥有自己独特的廓形，尤其是垂坠感十足的西服出现，让这一季更多出了几分潇洒的感觉。
拼接成为整个系列亮点之一，质朴的亚麻与棉质面料，或缀饰于丝缎斗篷的表面，或呈现宛如皮革的视觉效果；木质配饰展露雕塑般的精妙结构，抛光细节彰显近乎完美的精细工艺。粘纤平纹针织面料既是Ferragamo的佛罗伦萨传承，又呼应18世纪加勒比着装风格，Spazzolato皮革经过模压工艺处理，化为紧身胸衣以及光泽熠熠的硬朗嵌饰。
此外《封神》主演费翔、陈牧驰、娜然，惊喜合体于米兰Ferragamo 2024春夏时装秀场，朱珠也受邀出席。
Bally 2024春夏是新任创意总监Simone Bellotti的首秀。Bellotti是一位经验丰富的设计师，他曾为Gucci工作16年，接手Bally肩负着将这个瑰宝级瑞士品牌带入全新的、稳定运行的轨道。
新系列于米兰圣辛普利西阿诺教堂花园亮相，将灵感视角落定于“Monte Verità” 的乌托邦故事。品牌一贯的低调简约风格，四方轮廓和A形外套，以及花朵般的短裙显得清新又减龄。外套都是该系列的核心，大部分采用优质皮革，剪裁精准，还有运动夹克宽松长裤等等，都以清新、年轻的方式呈现。
瑞士红、钴蓝色及黄绿色，在水洗中性色调的映衬下，既呼应整齐划一的都市风貌，亦宛如微妙多变的高山植物。纯熟玩转对比例及对称设计的缩放，对原型、廓形、面料进行合理选择利用。丰富多变的姿态由垂坠飘逸、瞩目质感，到内敛迷人皆手感轻盈。通过速干棉质、尼龙织物、塔夫绸、平纹针织布、网眼织物以及抛光皮革展现。
2024夏季系列紧随着Matthieu Blazy专属定制航线，开启一段环球探索之旅。海洋、陆地、天际，万物生灵拼凑成世界的完整面貌，这些也是秀场创意之源。
“动态的工艺”这一概念继续贯穿本季时装系列，并将人文或自然元素融入服装之中，呈现出多元化的世界美学：传统定制西装坚实挺括的肩部线条被原始质朴的自然元素所取代，从火车上梦游的城市通勤者，切换到海滩边的荒岛生存者。本季还融合了来自世界各地的服装原型，时而缀以幻想之地的奇妙元素，充满游牧旅者的情怀色彩，“民族服饰”变成“国际服装”。
Giorgio Armani 2024 春夏女装系列作为压轴大 秀，为米兰时装周画上完美句点。你永远可以相信Armani先生无限的创造力，廓形简约又矜贵优雅之至，在不同色调的折射下呈现出来的雅致与气韵 。
如同天色变换，从晚霞、夜空、再到清晨，每一抹色彩都晕染得恰到好处，令人沉醉。像一缕阳光撒在海面上，由金色开始，随着光照在水里不同深度的折射，时装呈现了淡粉色、绿色、蓝色、黑色，结合流畅而严谨的时装廓形，摒弃了冗余而繁琐的潮流，用优雅的本质，打造衣橱经典。
对于手工艺的运用，Giorgio Armani延续了高定的品质，缜密的编织、细密的钉珠刺绣、还有串珠流苏、渐变如海浪的亮片，无论是细节还是整体，都是视觉享受。他的作品，永远如此，不在意潮流更迭，只专注他自己的优雅世界。
编辑/Nata 设计/ShanShan
*图片来源于网络
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北京民宿哪里便宜又好
北京又便宜又好的民宿如下：1、呆住幽兰。这是被誉为东二环的一座兰花园，在北京这个忙碌的城市，显得别有一番闲情雅致。呆住幽兰的31间客房均出自兰花古诗词，庭院里种满了薄荷、青草、月季、丁香、玉兰、海棠、翠竹。2、逸境·伴山。城脚下的逸境·伴山，是一个你能轻易到达，却不愿就此离开的地方...
北京民宿哪里便宜又好,北京住宿便宜且方便的地方?
北京民宿哪里便宜又好北京又便宜又好的民宿如下:1、呆住幽兰。这是被誉为东二环的一座兰花园,在北京这个忙碌的城市,显得别有一番闲情雅致。呆住幽兰的31间客房均出自兰花古诗词,庭院里种满了薄荷、青草、月季、丁香、玉兰、海棠、翠竹。2、逸境·伴山。城脚下的逸境·伴山,是一个你能轻易到达,却不愿就此离开...
北京住宿哪里便宜民宿,北京民宿哪里便宜又好
1、北京民宿哪里便宜又好 北京又便宜又好的民宿如下：1、呆住幽兰。这是被誉为东二环的一座兰花园，在北京这个忙碌的城市，显得别有一番闲情雅致。呆住幽兰的31间客房均出自兰花古诗词，庭院里种满了薄荷、青草、月季、丁香、玉兰、海棠、翠竹。2、逸境·伴山。城脚下的逸境·伴山，是一个你能轻易...
北京周边民宿哪里便宜又好
北京又便宜又好的民宿如下：1、呆住幽兰。这是被誉为东二环的一座兰花园，在北京这个忙碌的城市，显得别有一番闲情雅致。呆住幽兰的31间客房均出自兰花古诗词，庭院里种满了薄荷、青草、月季、丁香、玉兰、海棠、翠竹。2、逸境·伴山。城脚下的逸境·伴山，是一个你能轻易到达，却不愿就此离开的地方...
北京暑假住宿贵吗,北京住宿贵吗
北京民宿哪里便宜又好北京又便宜又好的民宿如下:1、呆住幽兰。这是被誉为东二环的一座兰花园,在北京这个忙碌的城市,显得别有一番闲情雅致。呆住幽兰的31间客房均出自兰花古诗词,庭院里种满了薄荷、青草、月季、丁香、玉兰、海棠、翠竹。2、逸境·伴山。城脚下的逸境·伴山,是一个你能轻易到达,却不愿就此离开...
裘子19857801313问：
意大利风情小镇交通方便吗?应该怎么过去? - ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 楼盘名称:意大利风情小镇 公交线路:278路:东药宿舍站 235路:丁香湖畔新城站,丁香小学站 277路:东药宿舍站,黄河汽车公司站 396路:丁香小学站 267路:丁香小学站 其他交通方式:沿重工街由南向北行驶,朝丁香屯/绕城高速方向,靠右进入广业西路,沿广业西路前行1公里即可抵达 (所载信息仅供参考,最终以售楼处信息为准.) 点击查看更全面,更及时,更准确的新房信息
裘子19857801313问：
武汉女装品牌加盟排行榜好的在哪? - ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 夏家三千金有的衣服好像是艾薇儿的.
裘子19857801313问：
杭州有哪些酒店便宜一点又舒适的? - ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 如家、汉庭、莫泰这种全国连锁的都可以的
裘子19857801313问：
合肥米兰阳光花园怎么样? - ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 合肥米兰阳光花园,属于意大利米兰设计,周边交通方便,有26路30路601路604路.生活方便.有日之惠超市,好又多超市.学校有创和幼儿园,方兴幼儿园,方兴小学,合肥师范附属实验中学.均价一万三
裘子19857801313问：
劳卡衣柜怎么样 劳卡衣柜有哪些优势 - ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 劳卡ROCO衣柜传承着意大利设计,有着非常科技、创新以及个性的设计理念,是时尚化的定制整体衣柜品牌,劳卡这个品牌还是国内衣柜行业中唯一配备了德式工业标准生产运营系统的企业,有着现代化花园式的生产基地. 劳卡的进口豪迈设...
裘子19857801313问：
徐悲鸿是一个怎样的人 - ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 徐悲鸿(1895—1953年),江苏宜兴人,原名寿康.中国现代美术事业的奠基者之一,杰出的画家和美术教育家.徐悲鸿父亲是个小有名气的画家.自幼承袭家学,研习中国水墨画. 1918年,他接受蔡元培聘请,任北京大学画法研究...
裘子19857801313问：
呈贡米兰园最进要卖的房孑多少一平兴 - ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 要看是写字楼还是商务大厦咯,如果是东盟还是很贵的,一般的住宅的话还是比较便宜的,3000-7000的都有
裘子19857801313问：
读【米兰的秘密花园】有感 - ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 近期,我读了一本书------【米兰的秘密花园】,这本书然我知道了德国人的礼仪知识.让我最喜欢的是前面的3章,这三章深深的让我明白了许多. 前面三张主要说了:米兰是一个生活在德国的中国女孩.再一次的星期天.米兰的妈妈给了米兰5欧元,因为她要给她的好朋友娜塔莉的妈妈买生日礼物.可米兰走在集市上买了棉花糖、冰淇淋、无花果,只剩下一欧元,可是这一欧元什么也买不了,米兰一边走一边寻找办法,正当她着急地时候,她看见了一座神秘的小屋,墙壁上开满了花,回头一看,看见了一个白色头发绿衣服的老太太.老太太面带微笑地和米兰说了很多关于鲜花和礼仪的故事,最后爱丽丝送给了米兰很大的一束花,米兰抱着花,听到了花唱歌的歌声.......
裘子19857801313问：
数学学校要买90套课桌,现有甲、乙、丙三个商场可以选择,三个商场 ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 在甲买,可享受的优惠价是: 只需买82套(因为加上商场送的8套正好是90套) 一共花费:82*90=7380元 ------------------------------------------- 在乙买,可享受的优惠价是:总共90套桌椅的全价的90% 一共花费:90*90*90%=7290元 ------------------------------------------- 在丙买,可享受的优惠价是:总共90套桌椅的返利 90*90=8100 一共花费:8100-(8000÷1000)*100=7300元 ∴最划算的是在乙商场买
裘子19857801313问：
花卉具体摆放位置 - ？
日喀则市路斯回答： 设计室内花卉摆放有哪些要点 植物的绿色是生命与和平的象征,具有生命的活力,给人一种柔和安定的感觉.利用植物装饰房间已经是当今室内装饰设计不可缺少的素材,它不但可以使人们获得绿色的享受,而且由于价格便宜、品种多、操作...
