大同古城一日游攻略
作者:嬉游
朋友们,今年夏天山西是真的火,前有俞敏洪和董宇辉等直播宣传,后有退休馆长打封闭来讲解。
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一直在网上云游山西的我再也忍不住了,于是策划了这场重走梁林之路的山西之旅。
第一站,就是最近后台呼声最高的大同!
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提起古都,很难有人想到大同,在网红的西安、南京、洛阳…面前,它确实低调到不像话。
但曾为北魏都城、辽金陪都的它,才是国内首屈一指的人文殿堂。
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大同甚至凡尔赛到明清建筑都排不上号,辽金木构美到目眩神迷。
从北魏的云冈石窟到辽代的华严寺,一部鲜活的中国建筑史,就在眼前这么缓缓展开。
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而且家人们,你们懂吗,大同还是一个意料之外的避暑城市。
早上我还在杭州满头大汗的赶高铁,晚上到大同立马吹到了凉凉的夏风,甚至想来件外套,实在太惬意了。
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去大同之前,这几个词一定要了解:
国保
官方释义是“我国按照文物的历史、艺术、科学价值,将不可移动文物划分为全国重点文物保护单位”,目前山西共有531处国保单位,是中国“国保”第一省。
对山西国保感兴趣的朋友可以看下山西文物局的官网,里面有山西每批次国保单位的完整名单:
http://wwj.shanxi.gov.cn/wwzy/wwlb/bkydww/qgzdwwbhdw/dspgb/
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鸱[chī]吻
鸱吻是我国古建常用的建筑构件,外形如鸱尾一般,抬头看宫殿,屋脊正脊两端的构件装饰就是鸱吻了。
来山西寻古时,屋脊上的鸱吻是一定不能错过的,他们大多都异常精美,流光溢彩。
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藻井
藻井的官方解释是“天花是遮蔽建筑内顶部的构件,而建筑内呈穹窿状的天花则称作“藻井”。
简单说藻井就是古代尊贵建筑里的天花板,很多藻井色彩绚烂、图案精美,代表着当时巅峰的工艺水平,一定不要错过。
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彩塑
彩塑是是我国传统的雕塑艺术,很多石窟和寺庙里的彩塑精妙绝伦、栩栩如生,也是山西访古的重点之一。
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大同Day 1
大同博物馆+云冈石窟+古城墙
大同博物馆
门票:免费
在大同的第一站,就先从大同博物馆开始吧,毕竟博物馆是快速了解一座城市的最佳方式。
大同博物馆是国家一级博物馆,馆藏文物有17万余件,在这里可以初步了解大同胡汉融合的独特魅力。
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博物馆一共有四层,2层的“魏都平城”与3层的“辽金西京”、“明清重镇”是必看的。
我很喜欢镇馆之宝的漆屏风画,可惜真品不能展出,我们只能看到复制品。
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除了它外,馆里的北魏陶俑阵、胡人牵驼俑、老玻璃碗、镇墓兽、司马金龙石雕棺床等也都是很震撼的藏品。
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另外馆内还有很多可可爱爱的显眼包,可以去找找看。
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参观完博物馆之后,还可以去一层的“同博文创”里盖章哦,里面章很全。
我参观博物馆时是买的电子讲解器,我觉得效果不是很好,大家去的时候可以蹲下免费人工讲解。
暑期大同博物馆人还是很多的,记得在“大同市博物馆”公众号提前预约,参观时携带身份证。
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云冈石窟
门票:120元
与敦煌莫高窟、龙门石窟齐名的云冈石窟,可能是中国十大石窟里最值得去的一个,里面有着令人目不暇接的视觉盛宴。
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而且云冈石窟对游客也非常友好,它无需在大夏天爬上爬下、几乎都是平地,带孩子过来也合适。
石窟里还能看到古希腊、印度、中国等多种风格的雕刻,非常神奇。
比如我印象最深的音乐窟便是如此,里面能看到龟兹的五弦琴、波斯的竖箜篌、天竺的梵贝、中国本土的琴萧等。
大家不要被配图劝退因为内部不可拍照所以我这只有外部的图片,看起来平平无奇些,但内部窟绝对震撼到让你不虚此行。
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云冈石窟还有一个冷知识,大家去的时候可仔细对比下,就是我们所见到的云冈大佛看起来无比高大,实际它是昙耀五佛最矮的一尊。
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对了,云冈石窟也有很多盖章点,感兴趣的话可以带个本子过去!
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大同古城墙
傍晚从云冈石窟回城后,如果还有力气可以去古城墙散步!
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因为大同特殊的地理位置,它自北魏开始就修建城墙,现在的城墙就是在汉、魏、唐、辽、金、元基础上于明代增筑的。
很多人说看到的城墙是全新的,那是因为现代修复时对城墙进行了包砖,古城墙夯土层都在里面,所以也能说是古城墙啦。
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游玩古城墙时一定要注意一点,就是古城墙只有四个门(和阳门、永泰门、清远门、武定门)可以出入,其余都是锁住的,我就下错了两次城楼
而要走到下一个出口是非常远的,我从日落之前走到了华灯初上以后才堪堪出城,大家一定要在体力比较充裕的时候去。
虽然城墙上也能骑车,但我没看到单人车,家庭车倒是挺多。
不过有一说一,城墙上的落日与夜景都很好看。
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大同Day 2
华严寺-善化寺-代王府
可以专门留一天时间给到大同古城!
关于大同古城的一日游路线,网上一搜就能跳出无数攻略与一天路线图,这里我就不再多赘述了。
这里主要跟大家说下来大同古城一定要去的几个地方,毕竟古城虽好,但还是未能免俗地修了些仿古建筑与商业街,大家来的话可以挑着精华游玩。
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华严寺
门票:50元
这么说吧,来大同,你可以不去任何地方,但华严寺和善化寺一定要去。
先说说华严寺,它是我国目前仅有的八座辽构寺庙之一&我国现存最大木结构单体的佛教殿宇,也是我去了这么多寺庙之后见到的第二座坐西朝东的寺庙(第一座为北京海淀的西山大觉寺)。
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汉族的建筑一般都是坐北朝南,但契丹人有着崇拜太阳的传统,所以他们的居住习俗向来是坐西朝东,“以东为尊,逐日而居”。
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来华严寺,三个地方是必看的:
一是大雄宝殿,大雄宝殿是我国现存的最大辽金木构佛殿之一,并同时拥有辽代基础、金代殿堂、明代塑像和清代壁画,可以说是全国唯一。
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另外,它屋顶的鸱吻为国内现存最大的琉璃吻兽,可惜现在正在修复,不能见其全貌。
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二是薄伽教藏殿,这座大殿是华严寺精华的精华,它是寺内仅存的辽构,走进佛殿可见古朴的辽代彩塑佛像群,其中一尊合掌露齿胁侍菩萨造像嘴角略带微笑,神态自然,被誉为是“东方维纳斯”。
薄伽教藏殿还有一处被梁思成称为“海内孤品”的辽代小木构—斗拱天宫楼阁,可惜无法看到。
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这也是我很爱山西古建的原因之一,看惯了一些名寺里金光闪闪的佛像,如华严寺这样带着岁月痕迹的佛像更让人动容,与他们对视的同时,仿佛穿越了时间。
看完佛像,可以沉浸式欣赏佛殿上方的藻井,复古精致一眼万年。
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三是华严宝塔,这是我国第二大纯木榫卯结构的方形木塔,塔内最震撼的是由100吨纯铜打造的地宫,里面供奉着舍利与千尊佛像。
但华严宝塔正在修缮,不好拍照也没法登高看寺庙全景,有点可惜。
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善化寺
门票:免费
如果说华严寺是辽构,那善化寺就是经典的汉文化佛寺了,始建于唐的它坐北朝南,一条中轴线贯穿寺庙,大同的民族融合之美从这两座寺庙里便可见一斑。
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善化寺又称“南寺”,是现存规模最大、布局最完整的辽金建筑群,拥有三座庑殿顶+四座辽金建筑,全国独一份!
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善化寺可谓处处是宝,门口的五龙壁是仅次于九龙壁的权贵象征,五彩琉璃在阳光下熠熠生辉。
它的山门是国内现存最大的金代庑殿顶山门,大雄宝殿为辽代遗构,三圣殿与普贤阁皆为金构,一条路走过去,整座寺庙像是一幅缓缓展开的历史画卷。
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不过相对于辽金木构,我更爱的是大雄宝殿里的金代彩塑,33座彩塑宛如天工。
而且善化寺也很清静,我去的时候整个寺庙里都没几个人,可以慢慢感受这座佛寺的古朴禅意与盛唐气象。
它距离华严寺大约1公里,可以步行过去。
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代王府
门票:128元起
代王府,人称“山西小故宫”。
它的布局与故宫相差无几,只是面积少了约3/4而已,但代王府的屋顶是与天坛类似的蓝瓦,从这点看倒有点像故宫和天坛的结合体。
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不过代王府早在清朝就彻底消亡了,现在我们看到的代王府是最近几年修缮的,我去代王府那天,应该是重新开园第一天。
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我到大同之后,大数据一直给我推送“代王府的演出”,按耐不住我这颗好奇的小心脏,于是半信半疑地去看了。
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我那天看的是《天下大同》的沉浸式实景演出,舞蹈、吊威亚打斗、光影等都很震撼,于我个人体验而言是完全值得的。
但就是有一点不太好,就是演出是从代王府的一进院到四进院,观众也需要全场跟跑,如果抢不到前排的话,几乎看不到表演。
《天下大同》表演一共两场,可以下午过去直接看两场,这样是绝对可以值回票价的。
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大同Day 3
应县+浑源
朋友们,我这里必须提前声明一下,应县并不在大同,而是在大同旁边的朔州。
但因为距离大同不远和朔州国保并不多的原因,很多人都会大同-应县-浑源一起游玩。
我这次因为时间有限的原因,也把应县木塔和大同行程连在一起了,毕竟来山西不去一次应县木塔,实在是说不过去。
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应县
辽佛宫寺释迦塔(应县木塔)
门票:48元
应县木塔,一定一定一定要去!
它建于辽代,高67.31米,约等于22层楼高,是全球现存最高的木结构建筑。
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木塔塔身没有一颗钉子,全靠斗拱柱梁镶嵌穿插吻合,但却挺过了数次地震与人文破坏,967年来一直屹立在此处。
在应县木塔,也能看到一个非常奇特的现象,木塔的22根柱子不是同时承重的,每天都会有一根柱子的柱脚离地休息,古人的智慧太牛了。
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应县木塔景区外围是一条很普通的小县城商业街,在这里看到佛塔时是没有太大感觉的,甚至想象不到它是与埃菲尔铁塔、比萨斜塔齐名的建筑。
但走过山门近距离看到佛塔时,木塔古朴,燕燕于飞,共同组成了一幅实景的中式工笔画,中国式的浪漫瞬间扑面而来。
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虽然我这次在大同的时间很紧张,但还是预留出了半天给它,我坐在木塔旁边的亭子里听着风中的风铃声,看着它发呆了很久。
或许百年前的古人也曾做着与我同样的动作,我们身处不同的时间维度,却不约而同的为同一场景沉醉。
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在应县木塔,我也久久不想离开。
它是一场极致的悲剧,塔身上刻着“中立不倚、永镇金城”的牌匾,但因为人为原因塔身正在以每年23毫米的速度向东北方倾斜,最终在某个普通的一天彻底坍塌。
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多年前还可以登塔,现在我们只能参观它的第一层了,或许几年之后连第一层都会被关闭。
我们与它的每一次相见,都可能是永别。
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净土寺
门票:15元
净土寺就在应县木塔不远处,应县木塔景区里有一个门上写着通往净土寺,直接出去沿路向前走,就能看到净土寺了。
都说应县有三宝,一为应县木塔,二和三为净土寺的天宫楼阁藻井与“披头散发的小狮子”。
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净土寺的大雄宝殿是金代原构,殿中的天花藻井与天宫楼阁美到极致,上面的金龙也无比生动,遗憾的是里面不能拍照,只能把这神作深深记在脑海里。
小狮子现在就在殿外,不过损毁有点严重,不仔细看的话,是看不出披头散发的感觉的。
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最后,再跟大家说下如何从大同前往应县木塔:
我的路线是从大同站赶8:29分的火车,9:17分到应县站,应县站出口即有到应县木塔的班车,车票5块。
现在也开通了旅游直通车,大家可以关注下直通车的车次,乘坐直通车游玩应县。
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浑源
这里必须要和大家说一下,如果要乘公共交通从应县玩到浑源的话,一定要赶中午12:30的公交,在应县汽车站对面等,不然下一趟去浑源的公交就是13:50了,那样就来不及参观其他了。
到浑源后,建议大家先直接打车去永安禅寺,按照永安禅寺-圆觉寺-悬空寺的顺序来玩。
悬空寺排队非常恐怖,像我这次先去的悬空寺,就耽误了好多时间,导致后面直接没时间去永安禅寺。
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悬空寺
门票:15元;登临费:100元
这座仅靠着几根木柱支撑的寺庙,让李白都大呼“壮观”!
它是罕见的集美学、力学与宗教为一体的建筑,已经伫立在此处1500多年了,更是建筑史上的巨大奇迹。
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我很担心有一天悬空寺会像应县木塔那样永远关闭,因此虽然寺庙非常难爬、且因人流较多的原因上去之后也只能走马观花的参观,我也咬咬牙上去了(那天我背了一个相机和像砖头一样重的电脑,真的是硬着头皮爬上爬下)。
悬空寺上,那么小的空间内竟然也修建了40座殿阁,其中有一座三教殿同时供奉着释迦摩尼、孔子与老子,非常罕见。
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悬空寺真的很险,当我爬上了悬空寺时,我才懂了为宣传家乡、70岁来悬空寺为大家讲解的山西导游朱梦麟先生有多么不易。
这么说吧,我一个20岁的年轻人,攀爬悬空寺那又陡又窄楼梯时尚且战战兢兢,无比艰难,更何况一个年逾古稀的老人。
每个山西人,都在用自己的方式为家乡发光发热啊!
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永安禅寺
门票:20元
永安禅寺,当地又叫做“大寺”,可能很多人并没有听过它的名字,但如果悬空寺与它只能二选一,那我会选择永安禅寺。
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那天下午从应县到浑源后,我先去了提前预约好的悬空寺,后因时间原因没能拜访它,又在次日花费了约4h的往返车程去专门看它。
永安禅寺处处是宝,大殿为元构;殿顶的黄色琉璃瓦为皇家规格;大殿上的书法“传法正宗殿”为元初大书法家雪庵和尚所书,全国绝品。
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不过最宝藏的当属传法正宗殿里明代的水陆法会壁画,里面的人物多达八百多尊,仙神鬼佛皆有。
很抱歉,我很难用文字形容出独一无二的震撼,但当工作人员的手电筒缓缓扫过壁画时,墙上的壁画像是忽然了生命,是可以永远刻在回忆里的存在。
看壁画一定要请讲解,大殿很昏暗,自己很难看清不说,还很难看懂。
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如果有时间,还可以去拜访下旁边的圆觉寺,圆觉寺有全国唯一侯风鸟砖塔,但这里不开放,进入要看运气。
Tips:大同市区有到永安禅寺的901路公交,半小时/趟;
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今天这篇主要是大同的古建攻略,美食的话后面会单独有一篇,这里就不多说了。
大同是人文爱好者的天堂,很多历史建筑背后都有着独一无二的意义,来之前必须得做好功课,不然它对你来说只是个普普通通的建筑物而已。
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来之前建议读的书:
《山西古建筑地图》
《营造天书》
《梁思成全集》
可提前可以看的纪录片:
《云冈》
王南:《千年一窟看云冈》
王南:《千年一塔看应县》
最后,在参观任何古建时,只要有讲解请一定要讲解,这钱绝对不白花。这次我因为时间原因,只有部分请了讲解,非常遗憾
/交通贴士/
大同是有机场的,很多城市也可直飞,交通比较方便。
北京及周边的同学可以选择高铁/火车,还是很近的。
/住宿推荐/
住宿选择古城里或周边就好啦,但一定要提前预订,暑假期间住宿还是很紧张的。
阅读更多国内自由行精彩内容,可前往什么值得买查看
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西山区单克回答: 上午云岗,中午恒山吃凉粉,下午悬空寺,下午4点回来城墙,晚上东方削面,晚上可以去文赢湖生态园,如果再有时间第二天可以去方特玩一天
项方15061014057问: 山西大同一日游.请熟悉大同的朋友给安排一下能去哪个景区还有路线.谢谢了!急用. - ?
西山区单克回答: 一日游第一种转郊外的:云冈-恒山-应县木塔 第二种东城墙-法华寺-九龙壁-关帝庙-文庙-雁塔-散画寺-崇阳宫-华严寺-圆通寺
项方15061014057问: 想来个大同一日游,300元左右.大家给定定路线.具体点啊 - ?
西山区单克回答: 我给你算一下:到达大同后坐广灵火车灵丘车去浑源悬空寺下车路费25元 门票60,完了去对面的恒山玩门票好像的60吧 再返回大同去华严寺转转 现在好像不要门票,要的话100,完了花公交5元吧去云冈石窟门票100.有一点紧张 你还吃饭什么的...
项方15061014057问: 大同一日游路线安排?
西山区单克回答: 那得两天时间去云冈半天去恒山的半天多最好上午去云冈下午去华林逛第二天去恒山下午去应县木塔
项方15061014057问: 请教大同一日游 - ?
西山区单克回答: 一天恐怕有点紧张,早上6点出发在火车站,坐去大同浑源的中巴车,1个小时到浑源县,从浑源县坐TAXI去悬空寺,10分钟,游览完悬空寺返回大同,从大同市内坐3路公交车30分钟到云岗石窟
项方15061014057问: 大同一日游推荐行程 - ?
西山区单克回答: 5点开车到 浑源县登山上恒山.10点下山游 悬空寺.12点在浑源县吃凉粉后回大同到云冈下午3点结束.
项方15061014057问: 大同一日游, - ?
西山区单克回答: 在大同逗留时间:约7小时,早6:20至下午13:40;参观景点:悬空寺、应县木塔、云冈石窟、华严寺.包车费用:350元经过连续三周的非人加班后,决定给自己放一天假.周三白天动了去大同的念头,目的就是看悬空寺和云冈,在网上作了...
项方15061014057问: 大同一日游去哪里好玩 - ?
西山区单克回答: 大同周边骑车游很多的分 可以去 与冈石窟、悬空寺等等 都是很好的地方
项方15061014057问: 大同旅游攻略?
西山区单克回答: 大同附近的景区,云岗石窟,华严寺,九龙壁等等都挺值得去. 云岗石窟的佛像,九龙壁的画像都很值得一看... 更多信息,推荐登陆游哪网查询.
项方15061014057问: 大同一日游怎么安排?想去悬空寺,应县木塔,和云冈石窟,他们每个大概能玩多久,之间怎么去? - ?
西山区单克回答: 时间比较紧 一下车就去悬空寺 因为这个比较远,需要坐长途汽车.中午回来后,做bus到云冈 要去应县木塔就太累了都不在一条线上面